Creek Street – A Historic Gem in Ketchikan, Alaska

Creek Street Ketchikan: Walk the Historic Boardwalk

Creek Street is arguably Ketchikan, Alaska’s most famous and most photographed landmark. This picturesque, historic boardwalk, perched on pilings over the rushing waters of Ketchikan Creek, is a vibrant window into the city’s colorful past.

Brief History of Creek Street

Creek Street’s history is defined by its pivotal and scandalous role during Ketchikan’s boom years as a fishing and logging hub.

• “The Line”: In the early 20th century, Creek Street was the heart of the city’s notorious red-light district. Because the neighborhood was built on pilings over a tidal waterway, it was famous for the cheeky saying: “Where both the fish and the money came easily.” For decades, it operated as an illegal but tolerated area of commerce.
• Dolly’s House: The most famous establishment, “Dolly’s House,” belonged to a madam named Dolly Arthur and is now preserved as a museum, giving visitors a glimpse into the life and times of the street.
• The Salmon Walk: Today, the former brothels have been transformed into colorful shops, art galleries, and restaurants. The creek below is a designated salmon spawning area, and during the summer months (typically July to September), you can watch thousands of salmon fighting their way upstream—a phenomenon often referred to as the Salmon Walk.

Why Creek Street is a Must-Visit Attraction in Alaska

Creek Street offers a unique blend of history, beauty, and Alaskan character, making it a crucial stop for any traveler:

1. Iconic Photography: The brightly painted historical houses, the rushing water below, and the surrounding Tongass National Forest create one of the most stunning and recognizable photo opportunities in all of Alaska.
2. Historic Immersion: Walking the boardwalk transports you back to the Alaskan frontier era. Tours of Dolly’s House or simply reading the historical plaques provide a fascinating, raw look at Ketchikan’s social history.
3. Perfect Location: Creek Street is right in the heart of downtown, easily walkable from the cruise ship docks and serves as the gateway to other popular sites like the Totem Heritage Center via the scenic Married Man’s Trail.

Creek Street is the cultural and visual heart of Ketchikan—a place where you can watch nature’s spectacle (the salmon run) while standing in a place steeped in human history.

The Colorful History of Creek Street

Creek Street is unique in Alaska for its colorful and surprisingly well-documented past, which is inextricably linked to the boom-and-bust cycle of Ketchikan’s frontier era.

The Origin of Creek Street

The street’s unusual geography—a boardwalk built on pilings suspended over Ketchikan Creek—was born out of necessity. The steep, rocky terrain made conventional construction difficult, forcing early developers to build over the water. This location, near the Tlingit fishing grounds, was a natural hub, attracting both Native Alaskans and early European settlers.

Establishment in the Early 1900s

Creek Street’s distinct identity was formally cemented by a city ordinance in 1903. As Ketchikan rapidly grew into a bustling port for the fishing, mining, and logging industries, the city council decided to relocate all “bawdy houses” from the downtown area to the east side of the creek, in what was then known as “Indian Town.”

This single act transformed the boardwalk into a designated, isolated area for illicit commerce, setting the stage for its infamous reputation.

Known as the “Red-Light District” of Ketchikan

For over fifty years, from 1903 until its closure in 1954, Creek Street flourished as the notorious “red-light district” of Ketchikan. It was a chaotic, lucrative hub catering to the thousands of single fishermen, miners, and loggers who passed through Alaska’s “First City.”

• A Unique Law: Prostitution was not only tolerated but was loosely regulated by the city. The houses were often owned and operated by fiercely independent women—sometimes called “sporting women”—who were significant female entrepreneurs in a male-dominated economy.
• A Hub for Bootlegging: During the Prohibition era (starting in 1917), the street’s architecture became an asset for crime. Bootleggers timed their operations with high tide, rowing their boats right under the houses where they would deliver Canadian whiskey through specially built trap doors in the floors of the brothels.
• The Famous Epithet: This convergence of commerce, illicit activity, and the seasonal return of spawning fish led to the street’s most enduring and famous local adage: “Where both the fish and the men came upstream to spawn.”

Today, the most famous of these former brothels, Dolly’s House, operates as a museum, preserving the memory of the madam Dolly Arthur and the wild, colorful history of the Creek.

Creek Street’s Transformation: From Brothels to Cultural Hub

The dramatic shift of Creek Street from a notorious red-light district to a beloved cultural and historical landmark is a classic example of historic preservation fueled by tourism and a commitment to heritage.

From Brothels to Cultural Hub

The era of illicit commerce came to an official close in 1954 when the city of Ketchikan finally outlawed prostitution, a move that effectively shut down the remaining bawdy houses. Creek Street then entered a period of quiet transition.

Today, the entire boardwalk complex has been lovingly revitalized into a legitimate, thriving commercial and cultural center that celebrates its past rather than concealing it:

• Retail and Art Galleries: The colorful, unique buildings built on pilings now house a charming collection of gift shops, unique curio stores, and art galleries featuring local Alaskan and Tlingit/Haida Native art.
• Dolly’s House Museum: The most famous of the former brothels, Dolly’s House, remains a focal point. Instead of being demolished, it was converted into a museum, offering guided tours that present an honest, educational, and often humorous look at the life of Dolly Arthur and the “sporting women” of the Creek.
• The Salmon Walk: The spectacular natural phenomenon of the salmon run (July to September), which once drew the attention of the creek’s patrons, is now a primary attraction. Visitors gather on the boardwalk to watch thousands of salmon fight their way upstream to the spawning grounds, often using the adjacent Salmon Ladder.
• Married Man’s Trail: The discreet trail used by married men to access the brothels is now a scenic, well-maintained wooded path connecting Creek Street to the higher part of the town, offering great views and access to the Totem Heritage Center.

Preservation of Historic Buildings

The preservation of Creek Street’s distinct architecture has been key to its continued success as a tourist magnet. The unique, brightly painted wooden structures on their precarious pilings are irreplaceable relics of the Alaskan frontier building tradition.

• National Register of Historic Places: The importance of this unique architecture and history was formally recognized when the Creek Street Historic District was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2014. This designation acknowledges the area’s significance in telling the story of American commerce, social history, and regional development.
• Restoration Efforts: Local non-profit groups, such as Historic Ketchikan, work actively with property owners to secure grants and funding to ensure the historic integrity of the buildings is maintained. This commitment ensures that the distinct appearance and character of the early 20th-century boardwalk are preserved for future generations, securing its reputation as one of Alaska’s most photogenic and historically rich sites.

Things to Do on Creek Street

Creek Street is no longer just a window into the past; it’s a fully operational cultural and commercial hub offering visitors a variety of activities that blend history, nature, and shopping.

Walk Along the Historic Boardwalk

The simple act of walking along the Creek Street boardwalk is the primary and most essential experience of the district.

• Scenic Wooden Walkways Along the Creek: The boardwalk is a perfectly preserved historical pathway. Visitors stroll along the sturdy wooden planks, which are suspended over the rushing waters of Ketchikan Creek by wooden pilings. The unique structure and the surrounding hillside environment make this a highly atmospheric and visually distinct experience.
• Architectural Photography: The brightly colored, eccentric buildings—many of which lean slightly or showcase unique repairs and additions over the decades—are a photographer’s delight. The juxtaposition of the historic wood, the green forest backdrop, and the vibrant colors is iconic Alaskan imagery.
• The Tides and the Water: Take a moment to look down. At high tide, the water laps close to the buildings; at low tide, the pilings and the creek bed are exposed. This constant interaction with the tidal water underscores the ingenuity of the street’s original construction.
• Self-Guided History: Along the walk, various informational plaques offer historical context and stories about the buildings, the women, and the famous bootlegging tunnels, allowing you to trace the street’s infamous past as the former red-light district.
• Connected Trails: The boardwalk seamlessly connects the downtown area with the rest of the historic district, leading you toward the beginning of the Married Man’s Trail and the Salmon Ladder.

Visit the Museums and Galleries

Creek Street’s transformation has turned its former brothels and businesses into a treasure trove of art, history, and unique Alaskan culture.

Dolly’s House Museum

A visit to the Dolly’s House Museum is a must for anyone interested in the street’s scandalous past. Preserved as it was when it was an active brothel, the museum offers a unique, unfiltered glimpse into the life and work of Ketchikan’s most famous madam, Dolly Arthur.

• Step Back in Time: As you walk through the house, you’ll see the original furnishings, including a player piano, a vintage phonograph, and a bed with a brass frame. The self-guided tour with an informative recording tells the story of how Dolly became an entrepreneur and a central figure on Creek Street.
• Historical Authenticity: The museum is filled with authentic artifacts, including some of Dolly’s personal belongings, providing a tangible connection to the past. The interior is a fascinating time capsule of the early 20th century.
• The “Secret” Trap Door: The tour includes a look at the secret trap door in the floor, which was used by bootleggers to deliver liquor directly to the house during the Prohibition era.

Local Art Galleries

Beyond the history, Creek Street is now a vibrant center for local artists and artisans. The former brothels have been repurposed into charming art galleries and shops, each with its own character.

• Native Alaskan Art: Many galleries specialize in exquisite Native Alaskan art, including intricate carvings, totem poles, silver jewelry, and woven baskets. This is an excellent place to find an authentic, high-quality souvenir or a piece of art that reflects the region’s rich Tlingit and Haida heritage.
• Local Crafts and Souvenirs: You can also browse shops filled with a wide range of goods, from handcrafted pottery and Alaskan-themed apparel to locally made jams and smoked salmon. These businesses are a great way to support the Ketchikan community and take home a piece of Alaska.
• Meet the Artists: Some galleries are studios where you can see artists at work, offering a direct connection to the creative process. It’s not uncommon to strike up a conversation with a local artist and learn about their inspiration.

Shopping and Dining Experiences

Creek Street’s unique location has fostered a vibrant mix of small, independent shops and eateries, many of which are a testament to Alaskan ingenuity and local flavor.

Souvenir Shops

The colorful buildings along the boardwalk are packed with unique shopping opportunities that cater to every taste, but with a distinct Alaskan focus.

• “Made in Alaska” Gifts: Look for stores that specifically promote “Made in Alaska” products. Here you can find high-quality, authentic items that are truly local, such as handmade jewelry (including pieces made with Alaska gold nuggets or gold quartz), pottery, local gourmet foods, and unique clothing.
• Native Carvings and Art: Several shops and galleries feature the intricate artwork of the local Tsimshian, Haida, and Tlingit Native communities. This is the place to find beautifully crafted pieces like wooden masks, totem pole replicas, and etched silver.
• Specialty Alaskan Foods: Stock up on local delicacies like vacuum-sealed, smoked Alaskan salmon, unique jams and jellies made from Alaskan berries, and locally roasted coffee.
• Thematic Novelties: Don’t miss out on the humorous and historical souvenirs that reference the street’s notorious past. You’ll find fun trinkets and t-shirts that play on the old saying, “Where both men and salmon came upstream to spawn.”

Local Restaurants and Cafes

While a few restaurants are located directly on the boardwalk, many more local favorites are tucked just around the corner on Stedman Street, offering an authentic taste of Ketchikan.

• Seafood and Local Fare: Given Ketchikan’s status as the “Salmon Capital of the World,” you’ll find an abundance of fresh, locally sourced seafood.
  • Nearby Favorites: Many of the best-reviewed dining spots, such as New York Cafe (known for its excellent coffee, American, and Mediterranean cuisine) and the famous Annabelle’s Keg & Chowder House (renowned for its clam chowder), are a very short walk from Creek Street.
  • Fish Houses: For quick and fresh seafood like fish and chips or seafood tacos, you’ll find options located near the water and docks, all easily accessible from the Creek Street area.
• Casual Dining: The area offers a variety of quick and comfortable dining options, from gourmet coffee shops to casual lunch spots, providing a perfect place to refuel between exploring. You might even find a Chinese restaurant right on Creek Street, reflecting the town’s diverse history.
• The Cape Fox Tram: For an elevated dining experience with panoramic views of Creek Street and the harbor, you can take the nearby tram up the hill to the Cape Fox Lodge, which features a restaurant and lounge.

Creek Street and Nature

The historical importance of Creek Street is directly tied to the natural phenomenon that occurs in the water underneath the boardwalk: the annual salmon run.

Salmon Spawning Season

Ketchikan Creek is one of the most accessible and impressive salmon spawning streams in Alaska, making the area around Creek Street a prime viewing spot for this spectacular event.

• The Main Event (Pink and Coho Salmon): The most visually dense and impressive runs in Ketchikan Creek, particularly the Pink Salmon (Humpies), occur during the mid to late summer.
  • Peak Season: Mid-July through August is generally the best time to see large numbers of salmon crowding the creek.
  • Species: While various species run at different times, the massive runs of Pink Salmon and the arrival of the aggressive Coho (Silver) Salmon provide the most intense viewing experience in the Creek Street area.
  • The Sight: At the height of the run, the creek can be “black with salmon” as thousands of fish struggle upstream to spawn, an astonishing display of nature’s tenacity.

Best Time to See the Salmon Run

To maximize your chances of witnessing the famous sight of salmon leaping and fighting their way upstream:

• The Salmon Ladder: Walk the boardwalk until you reach the Ketchikan Creek Falls. A massive concrete structure, the Salmon Ladder (or fish ladder), is built alongside the falls to help the salmon bypass the natural barrier and continue their journey upstream to the spawning grounds. This is a focal point for viewing the fish as they jump and rest in the pools.
• Best Viewing Spots: The observation points on the Creek Street boardwalk and the footbridge near the waterfall offer excellent, close-up views of the fish in the water below.
• The Married Man’s Trail: This historic trail starts near Creek Street, climbing the hillside and offering a great perspective of the creek below, where you can watch the entire procession of the run.

Wildlife Watching on and Near Creek Street

While Creek Street is a historical district, its location over Ketchikan Creek provides unique, accessible urban wildlife viewing opportunities, especially during the salmon run.

Eagles, Seals, and Other Wildlife

• Bald Eagles: You have an extremely high chance of seeing majestic Bald Eagles perched in the tall trees along the creek and the surrounding rainforest, or soaring overhead. They often congregate near the creek to feed on the salmon, particularly during the spawning season.
• Harbor Seals and Sea Lions: These marine mammals are frequently seen swimming in the creek, especially near the mouth where the creek meets the saltwater. They follow the salmon upstream for an easy meal, often visible from the boardwalk.
• Black Bears and River Otters (Near Creek Street): While you are unlikely to see them directly on the crowded Creek Street boardwalk itself, the presence of salmon attracts predators. The area upstream along the Salmon Walk (Married Man’s Trail) and especially a few miles outside of town at known spots like Herring Cove offers the best chances to see Black Bears and River Otters fishing for salmon.

Tips for Visiting Creek Street

Best Time to Visit: Summer vs. Off-Season

Summer (May – September): Peak Season

Off-Season (October – April): Fall/Winter/Spring

How to Get to Creek Street

Creek Street is located just a short walk from the main downtown area, making it a very convenient stop for visitors arriving via cruise ship.

Accessibility Information

Creek Street is generally considered one of the more accessible historic sites in Ketchikan, but it does have some limitations, especially if you want to access the upper viewing areas.

For All Visitors (Families, Seniors, Differently-Abled)

• The Main Boardwalk: The core of Creek Street is a wooden boardwalk built on pilings over the water. This main stretch is flat and generally easy to navigate, making it accessible for seniors, families with strollers, and visitors using wheelchairs.
• Shops and Museums: Most of the historic buildings along the boardwalk have shops, galleries, and museums (like Dolly’s House). Be aware that due to their historic nature, many buildings may have one or two steps up to the entrance, and not all may be ramped.
• Restrooms and Funicular: The Cape Fox Lodge Tram (funicular) provides a quick, scenic ride up the hill overlooking the creek (for a small fee). Check with the funicular staff for specific accessibility features.

Salmon Walk (Married Man’s Trail)

If you plan to view the salmon at the famous Salmon Ladder:

• Limited Accessibility: The Married Man’s Trail and the trail leading to the Salmon Ladder involve a mix of steep grades, stairs, and raised wooden walkways. This section may be challenging or inaccessible for visitors with mobility concerns or those using wheelchairs or large strollers.
• Alternative Viewpoint: You can still get a very good view of the salmon and seals near the mouth of the creek directly from the main, flat section of the boardwalk.

Wildlife Watching: Eagles, Seals, and Other Wildlife

Creek Street’s location over Ketchikan Creek makes it a prime urban spot for wildlife viewing, particularly during the salmon season.

Best Time of Day to See Wildlife

• Tide Changes: The creek is most active and alive with jumping salmon and feeding seals around the low tide. The low tide exposes more of the creek bed and concentrates the fish.
• Dawn and Dusk: As with most wildlife, early morning and late evening are the most active viewing times.

Best Time to Visit: Summer vs. Off-Season Experiences

Tips for Visiting Creek Street

1. Walk the Loop: Don’t miss the Married Man’s Trail (Salmon Walk) that runs alongside the creek. It leads to the Salmon Ladder and provides the best close-up views of the spawning salmon.
2. Respect the Creek: Do not walk in the stream. Human footsteps can crush the salmon eggs (reds). Use the viewing platforms only.
3. Dress for the Weather: Ketchikan is in a rainforest. Bring a waterproof jacket and comfortable, waterproof shoes. The wooden boardwalk can be slippery when wet.
4. Explore the History: Visit the famous Dolly’s House Museum, one of the original brothels, for a look into the street’s colorful past as the city’s Red Light District.

In addition to the main Creek Street boardwalk, there are two important nearby attractions that offer a deeper look into the area’s unique history and culture.

Married Man’s Trail and Salmon Ladder

• Location: The trail is a staircase and wooden boardwalk that begins at the end of the main Creek Street boardwalk, leading uphill and then along the creek.
• Historical Significance: This trail gets its famous name from Ketchikan’s past as a bustling frontier town. In the early 20th century, Creek Street was the city’s notorious red-light district. Married men would use this discrete, muddy path to visit the brothels without being seen by their neighbors on the main street.
• Today’s Experience: Today, the trail is a scenic walk and the best place to view the Salmon Ladder, where you can watch the incredible spectacle of thousands of salmon jumping out of the water to continue their journey upstream.

Totem Heritage Center

• Location: The Totem Heritage Center is a 10-15 minute walk from Creek Street. Follow the trail upstream past the Salmon Ladder, or take a short taxi or bus ride.
• Native Culture and History: The center is an internationally renowned museum dedicated to preserving the culture of the Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian peoples of Southeast Alaska. It houses one of the largest collections of unrestored 19th-century totem poles in the United States.
• The Collection: The totem poles were retrieved from abandoned Native villages in the 1970s and are preserved in their natural state of decay. The center’s exhibits also include ceremonial objects, traditional regalia, and photographs that tell the stories of these artifacts and the cultures that created them.
• Hours and Admission: The center is open daily from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. from May to September. The rest of the year, hours are more limited. There is a small admission fee, which is often included in tour packages.

Conclusion: A Blend of History, Culture, and Nature

Creek Street remains one of Alaska’s most iconic destinations precisely because it is a seamless blend of these three elements:

1. Nature: The existence of the street itself is dependent on the powerful, relentless salmon run that has occurred in Ketchikan Creek for millennia. The annual return of the salmon is the primary event that drives the local ecosystem, drawing in seals, eagles, and even bears.
2. History: The architecture of the brightly painted buildings built on pilings over the water is a direct response to the town’s mountainous terrain. The street earned its notoriety as a booming, lawless frontier in the early 20th century, with its “houses of ill repute” and rum-running during Prohibition.
3. Culture: The Tlingit people were drawn to the creek for its abundant salmon centuries ago, laying the foundation for the community. Today, the area celebrates this heritage with the nearby Totem Heritage Center and vibrant art galleries featuring local Native artists.

Creek Street is more than just a picturesque boardwalk; it is a historical record of a rugged town built on the foundation of a magnificent natural phenomenon.

Final Travel Tips for Visitors

To ensure you have the best experience exploring Creek Street and its surroundings: